Windy Slaw
Fennel Slaw Windcliff
It is interesting that so many people, while perusing the potager at Windcliff, glaze over, politely so, when I point out our enviable crop of bulbing fennel. The licorice-scented seed of this species (Foeniculum vulgare) indeed has a better following, as does the anise-flavored liquors inspired by them; the succulent swollen base of selected strains of this species are esoteric to most cook/gardeners.
I have used bulb fennel for an assertive albeit expensive flavoring and texture to a good Northwest adaptation of bouillabaisse that we like to serve out-of-town guests in autumn and winter, however I have never luxuriated in the concept of too many fennel bulbs until this year. Never again will I be without a surfeit of this adaptable and flavorful stem crop.
I sowed our seed ( the 'Orion' strain from Johnny's Selected Seeds ) under cover in early March, transplanting them to the garden in early April. Our soil is humus rich and I fertilized the transplants liberally with Steve Solomon's organic fertilizer formula (mixed here in 100 lb lots)
This year we began harvesting younger bulbs in late May which we roasted and toasted in the variety of fashions to which I have been accustomed. It was while shredding a bulb for a garnish on a green salad this past weekend, however, that I wondered how it might play as a the major player in slaw. It turns out , in a word, brilliantly.
I am not the first to have thought of this, a fact that remains rather consistent in all of my life's endeavors. None-the-less, for texture and flavor, and especially in late May and early June before the cabbage has come into play, fennel slaw is pure heaven.
Like the real McCoy, this is a sublime and satisfying side to rotisserie chicken; we most recently served the two with new roasted beets, locally produced goat cheese and pistachios on a bed off freshly slain arugula, finished with Robert's rhubarb pie and orange ice cream.
This is adapted from a recipe I found on Epicurious.com.
3 Large Fennel Bulbs coarsely grated
(we have found that freshly harvested bulbs in their prime do not to be cored; outer leaves should, however, be removed and washed as soil tends to collect inside)
1 large, sweet onion, coarse grated or finely chopped (we are using Olypmic, the first sweet onion to bulb at our latitude)
1 red bell pepper, coarsely grated or finely chopped
(primarily for color; new carrots, grated, do the job nicely)
4Tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped
Dressing
1 cup mayonnaise
˝ cup apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp.. Zest from fresh Lemon
2 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. freshly ground pepper
Zip up the dressing in the blender and mix thoroughly with the chopped or grated vegetables. I use my Cuisinart coarse grade attachment and it works perfectly (I tried the julienne blade and found the texture to be too fine). This is one of those dishes that marries up nicely, so better made hours or a day before serving; leftovers never go to waste.
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